Recently, Chase, a student working on his senior project, contacted us and asked if we could help him by answering some questions about central vacuum systems. At Central Vacuum Stores we believe in the value of education, and so we like to help students when we can. I turned his email over to Brad. Brad went above and beyond in his explanations to Chase, and I thought I would share his correspondence with our customers just in case there's information here you can use.
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Hi, this is Chase Jones. I first just want to thank you again and if
you could answer some more questions for me that would be great. I
might of already asked you some of these but please answer them again.
1)Could you please state experience and reason for expertise?
2)When you are on the job and installing your product do you run into
any problems while running tubing, piping, wiring, ext. through TGIs,
floor joists, or 2 X 4s?
3) What are your methods for installing tubing, piping, wiring, ext?
4)Have you ever had problems with pipe and tubing not being straight
vertically or horizontally when installing around or through TGIs,
floor joists, or 2 X 4s?
5)What are the current solutions for these problems that you use or
that are on the market?
6)When on the job approximately how much time do you spend measuring
and drilling holes to install your product?
7)When drilling to install piping or tubing do your holes ever not line up?
7a)If so have you ever had to re-drill those holes?
7b)If so how much time is spent re-drilling holes?
Thank you very much for your time and knowledge.
Chase Jones
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Good Morning Chase,
I will list my answers in the order of your questions.
1) I have been in installation of built in vac systems from day one here at Central Vacuum Stores. At about 2 years after that,I began installing intercoms. I had had some construction related experience previous to that. I've been at Central Vac Stores for 25 years.
2) There are usually no problems with the structural items you've mentioned that we cannot get around or through.I am sensitive to codes concerning framing and if I have a question,I will almost always defer to the head carpenter or superintendent for advice.
3) You start with a sharp bit 2 9/16" with a right angle plumber's
kit type drill.We use Milwaukee.I will establish the best locations for
the inlet valves based on typically a 30' hose. Next I will drill all of my holes to prep for the tube and wire.After that,I set my
mounting brackets then stub up or down depending on the location of my
main trunk run.After that I will join my stubbed inlet brackets into the trunk line run.I will continue this all the way to the unit location.
Then I will stub an exhaust to the outside.Now it's time to wire.I start with the inlet farthest away from the unit location.My wire pay out will be made as smooth as possible.I make a run of wire all the way to the unit.making my way back,I pull a loop to each inlet location.I leave a lenght of 6" looped at the valve openings.I also will use cable ties to fasten the wire along the tube.
Once that is done, we are ready to protect our work.Using electrical grade nail plates,place one on each side of any top plate or sole plate the tubing and wire pass through.Also use the plaster guard supplied with the mounting bracket.
4) I haven't had any problems routing the tubing through the various structures you've mentioned. The vac tube has some flexibility to it and you can, over longer runs have slight curves or bends. The important thing is to cut the tube lengths square and make sure the tube only is glued and the tube end is inserted completely in the coupling receiver.
5) The solutions for these mentioned above are securing the tubing with pipe straps and cable ties.
6) For a 5 inlet install, you will spend 45min.to 2 hrs. for walk
through, and drilling.The time depends on the design of the dwelling.
7) Often. Typically we'll have a 2X4 fire block , truss, or joist in the way. The fire block because of the nails to avoid.That's when a couple of 45 degree fittings are ideal in an offset to make a great transition around such obstacles.
7a) Sometimes.That's where the pre planning walk through is helpful. You are less likely to haveto re-drill holes.
7b) In a well planned rough in, very little time if any will be spent re-drilling.Also you see more when your on the ladder and close to your work.You make adjustments right there on the fly.
I appreciate the opportunity to put into words what I know concerning installation.I hope this is helpful regarding your project.
Yours Truly,
Brad Prince
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